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Preparing For A New Puppy

Your New Attaway Miniature Schnauzer Puppy

Bringing home a new puppy is almost like bringing home a new baby.  It will take time for the puppy to adjust to their new surroundings and it will take time for their family to adjust to them.  Some puppies adapt quickly while others may take a bit longer.  It just takes patience, love, and understanding on your part.  

A puppy will  love the company of you and your family. They will enjoy to snuggle on your lap, play with you and their toys, or take a nice walk with you.

During their ride home, puppies often become attached to the person holding them (although they are really safer traveling in a cage — their personal seatbelt).  

Just like a baby, they will probably need to nap quite often during the day and potty more often than an adult.  They can be very demanding when they feel it is meal time.

Please remember it may take them a day or two to adjust to their new surroundings.

Cage

It is important to have a cage for your puppy.  A cage is their safety zone.  It will keep them safe when you can not keep an eye on them. Puppies are inquisitive by nature and you don’t want them investigating areas were they may hurt themselves.  Puppies, as well as adults, often enjoy the seclusion and feel safe in their cage. When traveling in your car, a dog is always safer in a cage — their seat belt so to speak.

Our dogs enjoy the enclosed type of cage.  We suggest a cage similar to the “Petmate Sky Kennel Pet Carrier, 28” (28”L x 20.5”W x 21.5”H.)

 

Dog Cage

Collar

A cat collar will probably fit your puppy best if you are getting a young puppy (10 weeks old +).  An adult miniature schnauzer usually wears a 10″ – 14″ collar.

Food

We feed “Purina Proplan Sport, All Life Stages, Chicken And Rice, 30/20 Formula” (Purple Bag).  We have fed this food for many years with good results.  Purina has the resources, professionals, and years of experience to develop the best foods for our dogs.  You can have this food delivered to your door by Chewy or Amazon.

As a treat our dogs enjoy “Wellness Soft Puppy Bites”.  To help keep their teeth clean and for their enjoyment we give them Thick USA-Baked Odor-Free Bully Sticks sold by “Best Bully Sticks”

Inoculations

You will receive a health record when you pick up your puppy.  Make sure you take it with you when you visit your veterinarian.

Some Miniature Schnauzers have a severe allergic reaction to the vaccine given for protection against Leptospirosis.  Make sure your veterinarian is aware of this.  If the disease is prevalent in your area and your vet feels it is necessary, please do not give the vaccine until your puppy is at least six months old and stay at your vets office for a bit to make sure there is no reaction.  The Leptospirosis vaccine has been deadly to some miniature schnauzers but the disease is also deadly in many cases.

Please do not let your veterinarian over-inoculate your puppy!

There is evidence that this can damage the immune system.  Running a blood titer beforehand to see if a booster vaccination is necessary is much safer.

There have been numerous reports of Miniature Schnauzers having a severe reaction to the flea and tick protector “Nexgard” to include seizures!!!! Please use another product!

Spay/Neuter

We suggest that you do NOT spay your female puppy until she has experienced at least one heat cycle.  Studies have shown that it is much healthier to allow their hormonal system to mature before spaying.  The same applies to males.  Do NOT neuter them until their body has had a chance to mature.

SPAY/NEUTERING AT AN EARLY AGE IS DETRIMENTAL TO CORRECT DEVELOPMENT.

Ear Training

Sometimes natural ears will need a little help to lay properly, especially while teething.  If your puppies ears are standing up like a bunny’s ears or are just not looking right, please follow this link for a video that shows how to glue your puppies ears to help train them to lay properly.

Grooming

Remove the sleepers from the eyes daily.  A grooming should be done every six to eight weeks (to include a full bath).  Should it be necessary, a bath can be given between groomings.  (Schnauzers love to play outside and can get their legs and beard pretty messy in bad weather 🙂 The legs and beard should be combed/brushed thoroughly at least once a week to prevent knotting. Cut the nails with a nail clipper once a week.  Ear care (at least once a month) consists of pulling the hair from inside the ears with fingers or tweezers and then cleaning out the inside of the ears with a Q-Tip and alcohol.  Keep the pads of the feet and rear end (their butt) trimmed clear of hair.

The American Miniature Schnauzer Club (AMSC) has published some very nice grooming charts which are available for purchase on their website.  

Hazardous To Dogs

  • Artificial sugars are toxic to dogs. Xylitol is now being marketed as BIRCH SUGAR. It is highly toxic to dogs, can cause liver failure and death.  Xylitol is frequently found in peanut butter and ice cream.  You never really know what is in human foods these days so I refrain from giving them any people food.

  • There have been numerous reports of Miniature Schnauzers having a severe reaction to the flea and tick protector “Nexgard” to include seizures!!!! Please do not use this product!

  • Many MUSHROOMS found in our yards are toxic to dogs. Please make sure none are growing in your yards. With all the rain, mushrooms are thriving.

  • Hanging dog tags worn on their collars can unintentionally get caught in floor heating ducts, etc. Please be aware.  Some dogs get so stressed when this happens that they will strangle themselves.

  • There are many people just waiting to steal a puppy/dog. Please do not leave your puppy outside unattended.

  • Your puppy is very young and has not been fully inoculated yet. Please exercise your puppy only in areas you are confident only healthy dogs have  been running.  There has been reported an increase in Parvovirus recently.  It is a deadly disease.

  • Be very careful if you take your dog to a dog park once he/she is mature.  Some owners allow their dogs to run loose.  I don’t know how many posts on facebook that I have seen where a dog has been attacked by an unleashed dog.

Housebreaking

HOUSEBREAKING YOUR PUPPY from “The Common Sense Book of Puppy & Dog Care:  by Harry Miller, former director of Gaines Dog Research Center:

HOUSEBREAKING is not a pleasant chore, but it is not nearly as difficult as it sounds.  And once done, it is done for life.  The dog rarely forgets this lesson.  He is by nature a very clean animal, but he cannot stay clean without our help.  In taking him into our home, we make him live our kind of life.  He must depend on us to take him out at the right time.  Housebreaking is not teaching the dog to be clean; it is, instead, giving him a chance to stay clean.

The age at which housebreaking can be started varies among sizes and kinds of dogs.  Intelligence has a bearing also, although not as much as people think.  The problem is this:  the earlier you try housebreaking, the more careful and alert you must be.  In other words, the younger pupil needs relief more often, so the teacher must always be ready to take him out.

If housebreaking is started too early, progress will be so slow that you may think the pupil is stubborn or stupid.  When the teacher gives enough time to the lessons, when he allows for the pupil’s age and needs, progress may be surprisingly swift and sure.

WHEN TO BEGIN.  Breeders and individual owners often disagree.  One tells you he started his dog’s housetraining at three months, while another insists that seven months is the earliest age at which to expect a dog to be housebroken.  Each can be right; each can be wrong.  A great deal depends upon the trainer.

To housebreak a dog quickly, arrange to teach him full time.  If you train a dog in the morning and not in the afternoon, or train him for a few days and then go off and leave him alone for a day, you will have a confused and very slow learner.  Keep at it hour after hour, day after day, and your dog will become a model of cleanliness, whatever his age.

BE PATIENT.  The slightest sign of temper will cause fear and slow learning.  No matter how exasperated you feel, don’t let it show.  Be quiet, relaxed, gentle but firm, and above all cheerful.  Your manner is going to have a great deal to do with the way your puppy acts.  He has much to learn.  It is harder for him than it is for you, since he has to understand your language.  You are not half as good at understanding his!

HOW TO BEGIN.  If you have watched your puppy closely, you will know about what his needs are.  At four months of age he will urinates and defecates often.  Cold, excitement and confusion add to the usual number of paper or outdoor visits while feeding almost always promotes the urge.  In other words, you will have to take him outside at least every two hours, and always the first thing in the morning and the last thing before bed.

This may seem like a lot of trouble.  You are tempted to put off the housebreaking until, with growth, the puppy’s needs are less frequent.  Bear in mind, however, that regular outdoor visits teach cleanliness and control as well.  The earlier you start housebreaking, the sooner regular habits will be formed.

Also watch the puppy’s manner just before he relieves himself.  When getting ready to urinate he hurries along, sniffing the floor or ground.  When about to defecate he goes around and around as if to select a particular spot.  These habits are helpful since you can recognize his needs.

To start the lessons, shut the puppy in his crate, room, or pen at night after he has had his regular outing.  Leave the usual pillow or blanket, and a square of newspaper.  He is going to need to use the paper during the night for quite a while.  However, it should cover just a small section of the sleeping quarters.  As he grows, his instinct for cleanliness increases.  He becomes more unwilling to soil the floor close by his bed.  Do not leave him room to get far away from his filth since he is learning to dislike it.  He wants to keep his bed clean even if he does not quite know how.

Go to the puppy the very first thing in the morning and take him out.  Carry him out to be safe.  He is likely to eliminate the minute he is set down.  If the newspaper from his bed is wet, carry it out also.  Set the paper on the ground, set the pup down, and when he has performed properly praise him and bring him inside again.  The soiled paper tells the puppy what to do and is a very sound idea.  There is also a commercial preparation which you can sprinkle on the spot you want the puppy to use, whether indoors or out.  The odor simulates dog urine.  Do not hurry the puppy back inside, since he may need to make a bowel movement.  If so, so much the better; don’t forget the praise.

Do not feed him immediately upon your return to the house.  Let a little time go by.  Then serve his breakfast and take him out.  Either lead or carry him out the same door, so he may learn which door means “go out”.  And as you walk toward the door, say “Want to go out?  Go out?”

Be a clock-watcher.  At least every two hours ask “Want to go out?”  and take the puppy outside and stay with him until something has been done.  Watch the puppy in case your timing is not quite right.  The moment you see him sniffing or hurrying, or trotting around and around, take him out.

MISTAKES AND CORRECTIONS.  At first there will be mistakes, perhaps many of them, until he learns control.  To correct him properly you must be right there at the time, NOT five minutes or even two minutes later.  Stoop down, look him in the eye, and scold “Shame, shame!”.  Take him out at once, even though this particular visit may not have results.  If he continues to make puddles where he should not, in addition to scolding, slap the FLOOR smartly with a folded newspaper.

DO NOT spank the puppy for his mistakes.  Do not mishandle him in any manner whatever, except perhaps to grasp him by the back of the neck and hold him still as you look him in the eye.  Spanking will frighten the puppy and he may hide what he does next time in a dark corner or beneath a chair.  To terrify him by spanking him seems to make him think the act of relieving himself is wrong, instead of the place in which he does it.  Remember that the young puppy does not have full control over his bladder.  Petting, or an unexpected motion on your part, may cause instant dribbling.  This is an accident, a nervous reaction.  Never scold him at a time like this.  As it usually occurs in a shy pup, ignore it completely.  He will outgrow it.

Clean away all mistakes thoroughly, using soap and water and disinfectant until the spot can not be recognized for what it was.  Ammonia or vinegar in water may be used on rugs.  (Check that the fabric can safely be cleaned in this manner.)  Careless cleaning is unfair to the pupil since he will always want to visit a spot that has been used before, either his own or that of another dog.

CURB TRAINING.  Curb training is done in the public interest to keep the sidewalks clean.  “Curb Your Dog” signs are found in many towns and cities, and owners who do not obey are fined.  Whether or not your town has this ordinance, remember at some time your dog may have to be walked where such laws are enforced.  Watch your dog closely as you lead him along, and just as he is ready to squat, pull him gently but firmly toward the curb and into the street.  It is not difficult; most dogs take to the idea quite readily.  The same trick may be used when crossing the paths of parks and other public places.  A good dog owner considers others, and never permits his pet to foul or damage people’s property or areas where children play.

 

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